Valencia

About Valencia

Valencia moves at three speeds: the tightly packed historic centre, the green corridor of the Turia riverbed, and Santiago Calatrava's glass wall to the south. We almost always start at the Mercado Central, one of the largest Art Nouveau markets in Europe, with more than a thousand stalls beneath iron and ceramic domes; it opens in the morning and closes on Sundays, so plan your visit on a weekday. Right across from it stands La Lonja de la Seda, the 15th-century Gothic silk exchange (a UNESCO World Heritage Site) with its hall of helical columns — cheap entry and half an hour very well spent. A short walk away, Valencia's Cathedral houses in a side chapel an agate cup that tradition identifies as the Holy Grail; climbing the Miguelete, its octagonal bell tower with 207 steps, gives you the best view over the city centre.

From there you step into the Barrio del Carmen, the medieval heart nestled between the Torres de Serranos and Torres de Quart. By day it's a maze of lanes, graffiti-covered façades and independent shops; by night it's the city's liveliest bar district. To bring the pace down, head for the Jardins del Túria: nine kilometres of sunken parkland laid out along the old riverbed, rerouted after the 1957 floods. You can cover them on foot or on a hired bike, and they lead all the way to the Ciudad de las Artes y las Ciencias, Calatrava's white complex housing the Hemisfèric, the Museu de les Ciències and the Oceanogràfic (between 35 and 39 € per adult depending on the day — pricey, but it's the largest aquarium in Europe and easily fills an entire morning).

The big question is when to visit. April, May and October are the ideal months: highs of 21–24 °C, the occasional spring shower and moderate crowds, with the city in full swing before and after the brutal summer heat. July and August are punishing, though the beach at Malvarrosa is right there. Come in March and you'll hit Las Fallas (15–19 March): gunpowder, giant papier-mâché sculptures that burn on the final night and a city completely given over to the festival — but with hotels booked out months in advance and prices to match.

The budget is friendly: hotels from 85 to 120 € per night, a set lunch menu from 12 to 18 €, a coffee at the bar from 1.50 to 2 €, and the SUMA 10-trip pass (zone A) for 5.40 €.