Madrid

About Madrid

Madrid isn't a city you look at — it's one you walk. You get it on foot, from the Habsburg Madrid — the Plaza Mayor, the lanes leading down to La Latina and its Sunday taverns after El Rastro — to the straight shot of the Gran Vía, where the Edificio Metrópolis and its dome crown the corner of Alcalá. In between sits the Puerta del Sol, kilometre zero, more a crossing point and a meeting spot than a destination in itself.

The art triangle is the backbone of any visit: the Prado (general admission 15 €, free Monday to Saturday from 6 to 8 pm, though even then the queue is long, so get there early), the Reina Sofía with the Guernica, and the Thyssen, all clustered along the Paseo del Prado. Right next door, El Retiro: the Palacio de Cristal, rowing boats on the lake and, on weekends, half of Madrid doing exactly what you are. For sunset, the Templo de Debod, an Egyptian gift rebuilt above the Parque del Oeste, is the lookout where people gather to watch the sun drop behind the sierra. The Palacio Real and the Almudena cathedral close off the monumental west.

The neighbourhoods set the tone: Malasaña and Chueca for nightlife, bars and shops; Lavapiés for cheap, mixed eating; Chamberí and the Barrio de las Letras for something quieter. Eating out works in your favour: a menú del día runs about 12-15 € (three courses and a drink) and a café con leche 1.50-2.50 €.

When you go matters — a lot. May and September are your best bet: 17-21 °C, little rain and moderate crowds for museums and terraces. July and August punish you — topping 35 °C is routine and half the city heads off on holiday — though summer nights bring festivals: Noches del Botánico, Mad Cool, Río Babel and A Summer Story. Winter is cold and dry, with clear days.

Getting around is easy: metro and bus with a single ticket of 1.50-2 € (rechargeable Tarjeta Multi), and the centre is walkable. A mid-range central hotel runs from 80 to 150 € a night.