Biblioteca Joanina
An 18th-century Baroque library inside the Paço das Escolas, with gilded Portuguese-carved shelving and a colony of bats that protects the old books at night. Visits are only in 20-minute slots with a ticket to the university complex; there's no standalone ticket.
The essentials
- Tickets
- 12€ (entrada combinada Paço das Escolas)
A Baroque library still in active use
The Joanina Library was built between 1717 and 1728 on the orders of King João V (hence its name), at the height of the Portuguese Baroque, funded by gold from Brazil. It occupies three monumental rooms with shelving in exotic woods (rosewood, ebony) gilded in gold leaf, trompe-l'œil painted ceilings, and more than 250,000 documents, including medieval manuscripts and incunabula. This isn't an empty museum piece: it's part of the University of Coimbra's General Library and still holds living collections.
The bats that work the night shift
One detail that surprises visitors most: colonies of bats live inside and come out at dusk, once the building is closed to the public, to feed on the insects that could damage the paper and parchment of the books. At night, librarians cover the wooden tables with leather cloths to protect the surfaces from droppings. It's a centuries-old pest-control system the university keeps up deliberately.
How to visit in practice
You can't buy entry to the Joanina on its own: it's included in the combined tickets for the University of Coimbra (Paço das Escolas), which also grant access to the Capela de São Miguel and the Paço Real, from around €12-13. Access to the library runs in timed slots of about 10-20 minutes for small groups, so in high season it's worth booking online in advance or arriving early to avoid long queues outside the Torre da Universidade.
The Tower and the rest of the Paço das Escolas
The combined ticket also lets you climb the Torre da Universidade, with views over the Mondego River and the rooftops of the Baixa, and visit the Sala dos Capelos, the former throne room now used for doctoral ceremonies and other formal events. Opening hours change by season: from November to March it closes earlier (5:30pm on weekdays), while from March to October it stays open until 7:30pm, with last entry at 7pm.
Frequently asked questions
Can you buy a ticket just for the Joanina Library?
Why are there bats inside the library?
Can you take photos inside?
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