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Monuments in Girona
Monuments

Banys Àrabs

Cold room of Girona's Arab Baths with its octagonal lantern resting on columns above the central pool
Photo: Flickr (14485539@N00) / CC BY-SA 2.0 (Wikimedia Commons)

Despite the name, these are 12th-century Romanesque baths inspired by hammams. The cold room with its domed octagonal lantern is the most photographed.

The essentials

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Neither Arab nor Roman: Romanesque, from 1194

The so-called Arab Baths are neither Arab nor Roman: they are a Christian building in late Romanesque style, built in 1194, copying the layout of Roman thermae by way of the North African Muslim bath models. The name caught on in the 19th century, long after they had stopped working, and it stuck.

From siege to nuns' pantry

The building's history explains why it survives so well. The 1285 siege left it badly damaged, and in 1294 James II of Aragon handed it to Ramón de Tolrà in exchange for restoring it. It worked as baths until it closed in the 15th century; it then passed into private hands and, in 1617, a convent of Capuchin nuns used it as a pantry, kitchen and laundry. That domestic use saved it from ruin. Not until 1929 did it pass into public ownership and get restored.

The octagonal lantern and the five rooms

The image almost everyone comes for is in the first room, the frigidarium or cold room. At its centre is an octagonal pool ringed by eight columns that hold up an open dome, an octagonal lantern rising 12.2 metres from the floor through which the light comes in. Notice that the arches are semicircular, not horseshoe-shaped, and that the capitals carry carved foliage and the odd animal: this is Romanesque, not Islamic art. From there the route is a lesson in how a bathhouse worked: the changing rooms, the warm room, the hot room with its floor over a hot-air chamber in the manner of the Roman hypocaust, and at the back the furnace and boiler that produced the steam.

Hours, price and how to get there

It opens Monday to Saturday from 10 am to 6 pm and on Sundays and holidays from 10 am to 2 pm, the same hours all year; it closes on 1 and 6 January and from 24 to 26 December. General admission is around €3, with a reduced rate of €2 for over-65s and €1 for students and groups; under-8s go free. Since rates and hours can change, confirm the day's details on the official website, banysarabs.cat. It is right in the old town, between the church of Sant Feliu, the city wall and the cathedral, so you reach it on foot in a couple of minutes from any of the three.

Our tip

We recommend going first thing: the space is small, and when a group turns up the cold room runs out of room to photograph the lantern in peace. As it is two minutes from the cathedral and the Call, the natural thing is to string the three together in one morning. It is a short visit, a good half hour, but you rarely see so clearly how people bathed eight hundred years ago. Then climb up to the roof terrace, where the second tier of the cupola shows through: it is the best spot to understand the dome you have just seen from inside.

Frequently asked questions

What are the opening hours of the Banys Àrabs in Girona?
They open Monday to Saturday from 10 am to 6 pm and on Sundays and holidays from 10 am to 2 pm, the same hours all year. They close on 1 and 6 January and from 24 to 26 December. Confirm the day's hours on the official website, banysarabs.cat.
How much does admission cost?
General admission is around €3, with a reduced rate of €2 for over-65s and €1 for students and groups of more than 15; under-8s go free. As prices can change, confirm them on the official website, banysarabs.cat.
How long does a visit to the Banys Àrabs take?
A good half hour is plenty to see the five rooms, from the frigidarium with its octagonal lantern to the furnace. It is a short visit, ideal to combine with the cathedral and the Call, a couple of minutes' walk away.
Where are they and how do you get there?
They are right in Girona's old town, between the church of Sant Feliu, the city wall and the cathedral. You get there on foot: from the cathedral or the Jewish quarter, the Call, it is just a couple of minutes. There is no car access at the door.

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